How bout a how to?

Its funny to me... how I can get stuck in analysis paralysis.  Im not sure what is so intimidating about putting paint to wood,  but just figuring out my exact course of action.. Ugh!  You would think I was causing irreversible damage...  Now maybe if I had a very basic guide telling me exactly what to do when I first started out - MAYBE that would have helped!  Then again knowing me, it wouldn't.  But over time I have developed My Way.. So here goes! I hope this helps you as you begin to find Your Way!

This particular piece is rather simplistic.  I could see it being used heavily, so I wanted to give it a Revived Rustic look,.. Fun color but in a "Ive been well loved" kinda way.   The goal was to make it perfectly imperfect using
Fusion Mineral Paint Products! 
These days SO many paint products are touted as being "No Prep"! How enticing! But, lets be real,.. the better your prep is, the better your finish will turn out.  Would you go get sweaty and dirty and put makeup on with out washing your face?! First off-eewww! Second-No! Your makeup would just end up a mess! So yes, you WANT to make sure the surface is ready to accept paint.  Better to do it now, than after you are several steps in the process and have to strip and redo the whole thing! So first things first....
Prep...
I begin by taking everything apart,.. So I remove the mirror as well as the hardware and place them aside.  I always place hardware and small pieces in a safe container like a large zip lock bag. I also take the drawers out and set them aside so I can work on them separately.  Now what?  Oh yeah- we are prepping..  I like to use 150 grit sandpaper and a product called TSP.  Now TSP is kinda serious stuff so I would recommend wearing gloves! I wear disposable gloves the entire time I work.  If nothing else, it helps with clean up! If you are more of a naturalist, you can always use a 50/50 mix of water and vinegar in lieu of the TSP.  I use the sandpaper to break through any slick finish that may be on the surface as well as smooth it out a tad.  Once the entire piece is sanded I take a rag that I have wet and wrung out very well, and I take my bottle of TSP.  I spray down each section, one at a time then wipe it clean.  The goal is to make sure the surface is free of a slick finish, grease, or debris.   I allow this to dry (maybe a little over an hour)  and then I get to paint!
Painting...
I begin by wetting my paint brush and squeezing it in a towel to take all excess moisture out.  My first coat is with Fusion Mineral Paints Homestead Blue.  I load the brush up well and go over the entire piece of furniture.  We want the brush to be saturated enough that the paint glides on with no resistance.  Of course not loading so much that it puddles or runs down the sides! But it really should be a fluid motion.  Try not to go over the same spot multiple times. The paint is relatively fast drying, so if you keep going over it you begin risking the paint gooking up (Yes thats a word!) and pulling from the surface before its had the opportunity to adhere to it.  I allow the paint to dry over night before beginning the next step. Fusion recommends 2-4 hours depending on your air conditions. 
 Next I use their Renfrew Blue and follow the same technique.  
Again I wait until the next day before continuing.
Sometimes taking the time to wait until the next day just works well! I KNOW its ready and it allows me to break apart the project into small manageable chunks!  Next, using 150 grit sandpaper, I began to strategically remove the paint,.. some places just revealing the Homestead Blue, and In others I went down to the finished wood and in some places even down to bare wood.  Personally I like to do this in areas I would imagine it to naturally happen over time.  (Around the knobs, some of the edges, tops of the drawer fronts,.. etc) Once I have achieved just the right amount of distress I take 350+ grit sand paper and go over everything making it smooth… I then wipe down everything with a rag slightly moistened with 50/50 denatured alcohol and water, being sure to remove all dust so our protective finish is flawless!
Top Coat...
Now to protect. I like to use Fusion Minerals Tough Coat to give protection. Using a dampened sponge applicator I apply the Tough Coat over the surface. Again we want to try not to go over the same area multiple times. Once that is allowed to dry well ( I allowed 6 hours) I take 600 grit sand paper.  We just want to make sure everything is completely smooth.  I wipe down everything again with 50/50 denatured alcohol and water and apply the Tough Coat again.  I allow this to dry until the next day to allow plenty of dry time.  (regardless of allowing recommended dry time- you really dont want too many coats of ANYthing applied in one day-you risk the product not curing properly. I limit myself to 3 at the very most)  Once again I sand and wipe down using the same method. And now for Fusion Minerals Beeswax Finish.  I have a brush called Waxine.  I gently rub her into the wax  and use her to work the wax into the surface.  Not much is needed! No pooling, no globs, we are just gently moistening the finish. As I worked over a section, I used a clean lint free cloth to wipe down, removing any excess.  As this dries I begin to work on the other details...
The small stuff..  It all adds up!
I like to make sure everything is intentional.

Knobs...
While I could have changed out the hardware-there is something about the original wooden pulls that I hate parting with.  So I decided to just give them a little more dimension using Fusions Antiquing Paste.  I took a small paint brush and dipped it into mineral spirits and dabbed out the excess.  I then dipped the brush into the paste and work it into the grooves of the knobs, and used a rag to wipe the excess away. 
 Drawers...
I came across a beautiful complimentary fabric that I just needed to use to line the bottom of the drawers.  To make sure it was removable, I simply cut craft paper to fit the drawers and covered those using craft glue with the fabric, wrapping it around the back.
 
I also like to add a touch of pop to the sides of the drawers so I started with Fusion Mineral Paints Upper Canada.  It was a tad too pale for what I wanted, so I added some Renfrew and painted the sides of the drawers.  After hours of drying time I sanded back with 150grit sand paper to distress and show the grain then 350 grit sand paper to smooth.  I then use the Beeswax Finish to seal.
Lastly I have to add a small touch to the hardware that secures the mirror.  I decided to use Fusions Gilding Paste in Copper and I just gently use my gloved hand to work in the paste over the surface of the hardware. 
This is easily one of my favorite projects to date! I love the dimension in the finish caused by the layering of different colors and sanding and waxing.. Im noticing that depending on lighting, or time of day, the piece takes on different hues.. Im loving these colors! Aaahh... happy painting y'all! 
**I know many may wonder what those bottles are in the pictures.. Fusion produces their paints in AWESOME clear containers!! Fusion Paint is also,.. like colored cement! haha! So, being the clean up allergic person I am I LOVE keeping my paint in these 20oz FIFO bottles! Each container of paint fits in very easily and allows a little extra room... 
**Clean up: I LOVE Fusions Paint Brushes! But,.. they are an investment! So,.. the moment they are not being used they are cleaned with their amazing Brush Soap and water!  (I love that stuff...)  The Wax Brush I use is cleaned beautifully by working Mineral Spirits into it and rinsing out 
**Got other questions?! Feel free to leave a comment or find me on Facebook! 



1 comment

  1. I love this piece! You did a lovely job of explaining the how to's as well! Thank you for the lovely compliments and for joining in this week's party! You are always welcome anytime :0)!
    Smiles!
    Terry

    ReplyDelete

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